Fashion
While the fiery success of AMC’s Mad Men more than resurrected the pocket square and perhaps in some moments made it feel surfeited, it is still an important accessory. In today’s times, it’s not necessary to limit one’s pocket square to set starchy occasions or even folds for that matter. Much like ties, socks and cufflinks, this is an opportunity, wardrobe real estate if you will, to break the mold. Through color, patterns or even unique folds, pocket squares are a guaranteed way to up the ante of your look.
A versatile accessory, it can bring a spritz of sophistication to casual Fridays. A silk pocket square in an understated color, tucked into a blazer pocket, paired with denim, is a seamless way to usher in the weekend on a Friday morning. A traditional and modern piece of fabric, the many ways it can be fashioned into your wardrobe are quite remarkable. Brunch, weddings and in-between, it’s your perfect social sidekick.
For the simple, modern man, a pocket square is a great alternative to a tie. In like manner, one can easily pair a pocket square with a tie in an ensemble. As a broad brushstroke, one should match hues of the square against the tie, focusing on one matching element. For example, if you are wearing a blue gingham pocket square, a blue tie would pair well. For a solid colored square matched with a solid colored tie, attempt similar hues but embrace different shades (think darker against lighter). Try not to match things precisely; as such endeavors typically result in inevitable visual conflict. Shades come from the same family of hues but work much more harmoniously, adding texture and visual interest. Another simple foolproof formula is to match the square to the background of your shirt or pattern. Either way you do it, enjoy experimenting, chances are you’ll come up with something rather unique and interesting.
Lastly, let’s not forget a functional purpose these right-angled friends do. They wipe. Generally, they’re perfect for tears, yours and others, and sweat (hopefully only yours).
Customizing your clothes and getting them tailored used to be limited to the rich and the vertically disenfranchised. Nowadays, men from all walks of life and income brackets are exploring the option. Companies like J.Hilburn and Michael Andrews Bespoke offer customized, fast bespoke fashion, for men. The results are quite pleasing, certainly a step above ready-to-wear and will grant individual fit, justifying the average 15% price markup.
Often, made-to-measure is confused with bespoke. It is important not to confuse the two. While the first, involves customizing clothing to the wearer’s measurements and a few other tailored treatments, the customizing experience more or less ends here. In simpler terms, ready-to-wear and made-to-measure clothing both conform to standard-sized base patterns (the latter an alteration of the standard-sized). Thus, the result involves less workmanship.
Bespoke, is right up there with Haute couture in the realms of the customized. It is characterized completely by the customer and their selection. From the sorts of fabric used, to features, fit and the process by which the garment is crafted (mostly hand made), it is a journey of inception, bringing a truly personal story to an article of clothing.
Savile Row, a shopping street in London is thought to have coined the term, when fabric for a garment was to “be spoken
for” by those who sought it. Today, it marks a ratification of authenticity and luxury. The row is a mecca for those who seek only the best in tailoring. The street sparked the formation of a consortium, which seeks to preserve the heritage of the Savile Row tailoring craft and holds a high standard of conditions that need to be met, should a tailor or establishment wish to use the term Savile Row Bespoke to describe the garments that they make.
Smart Casual conjures up many a depiction of dress trousers, buttoned shirts (with or without ties) and what not.
Today, the aesthetic has evolved to encompass quite the array of choices that loosely fit the expression. As a broad brushstroke, Smart Casual stems from a point of view that brings together a sense of professional polish, with a touch of informality and a streak of self-expression—thus redefining office uniform as being functional, unique and still professional.
Simply, dress pants, a collared shirt and dress shoes equate Smart Casual. Trimmings such as belts, ties or cardigans, particularly the latter are your opportunity for a modus operandi—an opportunity to shine if you will.
Some other ideas to consider:
- Mix things up and opt for loafers and go sock less on Fridays, in warm weather only
- Anchor your neckwear with a tie bar
- Artfully break up the monotony of what may be overtly professional and add a zip of color by opting for bold colored socks
- Wear a plaid or check shirt layered with a vest or blazer, another opportunity to be unique but still maintaining a professional demeanor (one of my personal favorite looks)
- For a rakish look wear jeans (if they’re allowed), but make sure they’re dark and crisp. Pair with a collared shirt and the dressiest of shoes
Photos: GQ.com and JHilburn.com
New England, conservative protestant values and Ivy League schools sum up the aesthetic we know today as Prep. Beyond the look, Prep draws from a heritage that focuses on social achievements, class, and decorum. The unpremeditated success of The Official Preppy Handbook in the 80′s, turned what was essentially an underlying culture into an aspiration defined by a strong sartorial sense. Ralph Lauren catapulted the aesthetic and defined it as active, stylish and cultured.
Textbook Prep is a generally a little disheveled, but finds harmony in the mix of the dressy, casual and utilitarian. Think gingham, khakis and boat shoes.
For a style that’s a little more refined and unique, consider this:
- Appropriate etiquette, it’s not just about your clothes. Handwritten thank you notes may seem appropriate to write when donned in J.Crew from head-to-toe—but consider always engaging in such practices.
- Prep isn’t limited to penny loafers, cardigans and Nantucket Reds. Consider pocket squares as a nod to a culture that was historically understated.
- In today’s Prep trends, vintage and heritage are key. You don’t have to wear shoes passed on to you from your grandfather but include accessories and fabrics that tell a story.
- Unless you attended one of these, one should never sport an Ivy League institution’s colors or name.
The weather is getting colder. The days are getting shorter. And you’re starting to think “it’s time for fall clothes!” As you make the transition this season, what do you need to keep in mind? What’s hot? How do you stay comfortable, yet professional? In this episode David reviews what YOU need to know about this year’s fall fashion.
Podcast: Play in new window | Download
Not too starched and certainly not too stuffy. Post economic hemorrhaging, today’s creative account executive needs to shake off all the illusions and pretensions of the doo-dah days and keep it amiable.
It’s still important to stick to a silhouette that complements your physique and a style that adds credibility to your expertise and clarifies your authority. Keep the most part of your ensemble somber but confidently play with sparing pops of color and layer with an interesting sport coat, like this Jersey Blazer.
Vintage Tuxedo Shirt from Martin + Osa ($79.50), Skinny Fit Trousers from Topman ($80), Jersey Blazer from Topman ($138),Perforated Penny Driver from Prada ($460) and Trooper Bag ($215) from J.Fold.
In spirit of optimism, some form of obscure notion of job stability and perhaps an economy piqued, I’m compiling looks for the working man, the job seeker or professional poseur.
Whichever man you are, here’s a work-look to don for those of you in the creative field. Designers, writers, artists, photographers and those of you in-betweeners, here’s how to really look like you’re basking in artistic expression and professional acumen.
Broken-In-Button-Down from Martin + Osa ($59.50), Dylan In Boone, Slouch Tapered denim from J Brand($165), Classic Pointed Lace Ups from Topman ($76) and Rugged Twill Tote from Martin + Osa ($99.50).
Although it may not be present in all its glory, Spring is here. Dress up for the weekend and for the jaunty season. For a comfortable and relaxed look, incorporate bright colors, with breathable fabrics, and geometrical prints.
Polo ($40), Cardigan ($50) and Shorts by Top Man. Bag ($298) by Marc by Marc Jacobs and Espadrille ($78) by Jeffrey Campbell.
