Wardrobe
Henry Alford’s article in the New York Times published last month, titled “Does this Swimsuit Make Me Look Fat?” has ignited some really interesting discourse on the topic of men and body image, particularly within contexts of the seaside and summer. Thankfully, culture has been considerably gracious to men with its expectations of the handsome. Nonetheless, we are playing catch up with the contrived moulds that women are too often snared into. Alford’s diatribe wrestles with the inevitable: age, decline of metabolism and the body. He amusingly describes his as a Weber grill. Before getting on a tangent and waxing poetic on fit and style, it is important that we note and happily accept our bodies for what they are and respect their threshold. We should exercise and consider the beach season as an opportunity to tone up and lose some of those extra pounds, but at the same time we cannot expect to all have six-packs and a body that is always beach ready.
Park and Ronen, J.Crew, Ami Sanzuri, Saturdays and D&G are all swimsuit makers that should have styles that will flatter most of you guys out there regardless of age and body size, even if you have pot bellies or chicken legs.
I will say as a rule of thumb though, leave the Speedos for the athletes or swimming workouts and not for the beach, unless you workout on the beach, well that’s another story. Also, ditch the board short style; it’s too reminiscent of pubescence.
From left to right, Ami Sanzuri, Park and Ronen, J.Crew, D&G and Saturdays.
After a long and intense winter, an integral facet of a wardrobe shift is to consider the change in season. While transitions from summer to spring are not prescribed to be that explicit, there is a shy cheer in the air that’s waiting to be heard when spring is cooking up. This does not have to conjure up being impeccably styled in the outdoors for a fashion shoot, but rather an adjustment to nature and your mood. Apart from the given notion that color brightens up pretty much everything, there is something to be said about hues and textures made for a specific season. Here are some DAMstyle picks for you to consider incorporating into the spring season.
The Relaxed Blazer:
This is great reinterpretation of a style that is begging for weekends alfresco. The chill version of its uptight cousin the dress blazer, this guy is smooth, relaxed and even distressed but never sloppy.
A leather Jacket:
This is a great time to incorporate a classic piece of outerwear in your wardrobe. Think of this in a rich cognac or brown for spring. Keeping you warm while refreshing your point of view, this looks solid with classic combinations such as pink and khaki.
A Bright Trouser:
We’re not suggesting you don the colors of the rainbow all in one ensemble, but there’s quite a statement made when your khakis or denim aren’t in the expected hues and styles that one is accustomed to.
A Watch with a Canvas Strap:
A great way to update the look of your timepiece is by switching out the strap and granting your watch a fresh point of view. Think cotton, canvas or chambray, as opposed to leather for spring and summer.
While it makes perfect sense to keep somber and dark in a season as earnest as winter, it is no excuse to mirror those cold and miserable grey snow covered pavements.
Consider your accessories as an opportunity to inject some life-giving color to your clothes and spirit. Ties, socks, pocket squares and even suspenders are accent color possibilities that are bound to spruce up any dark, winter ensemble.
For a traditional pop of color otherwise known as contrast, consider navy or red but in texture, such a knit tie. This, for example will draw attention to gray faultlessly.
Feeling a little more adventurous? Consider mixing patterns. A blue Gingham shirt with a herringbone blazer makes for a great winter preppy look, and you’re guaranteed not to look like a clown.
Save the super bright colors or patterns that really push the envelope for an unobtrusive accessory such as a pair of socks. A personal antidote to brighten those dreary days, the peek of cheer they emit is enough to separate you from those winter duds moping around the office.
Last but not least, consider administering some of that color on your outer ensemble as you brave the elements for your commute. While black leather gloves with a grey coat are tried and true. Some color on a scarf or even gloves is enough to thaw out your most frozen of spirits.
So much can be said about the Italian aesthetic. Its very annunciation summons the expensive and luxurious in just about everything—cars, suits and robust espresso machines. Having said that, there’s more to Italian than simply donning Armani or Prada. Moreover, you certainly do not have to be Italian to implement into your lifestyle a sensibility that has clearly permeated lifestyles, the world over.
If there’s one thing to take into account, it’s the appreciation of learning how to do everything with style and grace. This does not always have to be expensive or luxurious. Perceived as if it were hardly rehearsed, sprezzatura is a studied carelessness that is embedded in the Italian way of doing things. It is an understated action, a sophisticated attention to detail. Hard to describe, it’s an attribution usually presented in contexts of art and literature, and who else but the Italians see life as an art form on a daily basis?
To lay a foundation for an Italian wardrobe you’ve got to pay attention to detail—more than usual. It’s mostly about presenting yourself in sharp edges and silhouettes. But, it is also in the discerning and effective use of color and accessories.
Italian style is distinctively fitting and elegant. Having said that, it easily borrows from the American sensibility of casualness and fun. What’s really interesting about styles and aesthetics today, particularly when it comes to wardrobes is that nothing is exclusive. Gone are the rules of what is strictly Italian, English or American. Unless you are dealing with suiting, it’s hardly astonishing that even the Italians themselves borrow from other styles. In fact, on an Italian street today, Cons and khakis are worn so frequently you’d wonder if you were really on a crowded street in Milan.
Some tips and strategies to consider:
- Fabric: It’s all about what clothes are made from. Don’t just go for what looks good. Invest in fabrics and wools from reputable mills and yarn of up-market quality.
- Shoes: Have at least one pair of shoes in your closet that you know will last you a while. See this as an investment.
- Anything handmade: This always brings a touch of delicacy to an ensemble. Know where your clothes and accessories come from and consider the handmade quality as a well-appointed option.
- Unique: Sure Italian is synonymous with luxury and high quality, but tweak style to tell your story. Choose colors that complement your tone, height and body.
- Get it altered: Take care of that extra fabric from your trousers that dangles over your shoes. Go the extra mile and alter your clothes accordingly. Instead of investing in new clothes that almost fit, consider altering existing pieces in your wardrobe for an updated, form fitting look.
Images courtesy of Tommy Ton photographing for GQ
Rotating the items in your closet should happen twice a year: in October for Fall/Winter and in March for Spring/Summer. In this podcast, David discusses a sensible approach to accomplishing the tedious bi-annual task.
Podcast: Play in new window | Download
Smart Casual conjures up many a depiction of dress trousers, buttoned shirts (with or without ties) and what not.
Today, the aesthetic has evolved to encompass quite the array of choices that loosely fit the expression. As a broad brushstroke, Smart Casual stems from a point of view that brings together a sense of professional polish, with a touch of informality and a streak of self-expression—thus redefining office uniform as being functional, unique and still professional.
Simply, dress pants, a collared shirt and dress shoes equate Smart Casual. Trimmings such as belts, ties or cardigans, particularly the latter are your opportunity for a modus operandi—an opportunity to shine if you will.
Some other ideas to consider:
- Mix things up and opt for loafers and go sock less on Fridays, in warm weather only
- Anchor your neckwear with a tie bar
- Artfully break up the monotony of what may be overtly professional and add a zip of color by opting for bold colored socks
- Wear a plaid or check shirt layered with a vest or blazer, another opportunity to be unique but still maintaining a professional demeanor (one of my personal favorite looks)
- For a rakish look wear jeans (if they’re allowed), but make sure they’re dark and crisp. Pair with a collared shirt and the dressiest of shoes
Photos: GQ.com and JHilburn.com
Not too starched and certainly not too stuffy. Post economic hemorrhaging, today’s creative account executive needs to shake off all the illusions and pretensions of the doo-dah days and keep it amiable.
It’s still important to stick to a silhouette that complements your physique and a style that adds credibility to your expertise and clarifies your authority. Keep the most part of your ensemble somber but confidently play with sparing pops of color and layer with an interesting sport coat, like this Jersey Blazer.
Vintage Tuxedo Shirt from Martin + Osa ($79.50), Skinny Fit Trousers from Topman ($80), Jersey Blazer from Topman ($138),Perforated Penny Driver from Prada ($460) and Trooper Bag ($215) from J.Fold.
In spirit of optimism, some form of obscure notion of job stability and perhaps an economy piqued, I’m compiling looks for the working man, the job seeker or professional poseur.
Whichever man you are, here’s a work-look to don for those of you in the creative field. Designers, writers, artists, photographers and those of you in-betweeners, here’s how to really look like you’re basking in artistic expression and professional acumen.
Broken-In-Button-Down from Martin + Osa ($59.50), Dylan In Boone, Slouch Tapered denim from J Brand($165), Classic Pointed Lace Ups from Topman ($76) and Rugged Twill Tote from Martin + Osa ($99.50).
